Motorcraft - Coil Asy - Ignition P DG544

Perfect, Good Read more

Made the truck run like new Read more

Worked perfectly on 2 Ford Rangers I have. First truck idled fine and held steady speed fairly well, but as soon as you accelerate or go uphill, the engine would cut in and out severely. Thought I was chasing a fuel problem. Pulled the coil and it had visible cracks all through it. I don't know how it ran. Pulled the one off the other truck to swap and test and the acceleration became smooth! Ordered this OEM part and truck ran great. THEN,,, I went to put my "test" coil back on the second truck, looking it over closely and saw some cracks on it too! Replaced that one also and suddenly that engine that I thought was running fine,,, WOKE UP! Runs real fine now! Highly recommended!!! Read more

This Motorcraft ignition coil looks to be an improved/ redesigned FORD part, since the FORD part # ends in -AD compared to the original ignition coil with -AC. Refer to the third photo above, comparing the old and newer ignition coils. Well this new Motorcraft ignition coil was easy to install, and it fixed the issue of my 2010 Ranger sporadically chugging or stuttering, when the engine was laboring, while climbing up steeper gradients. DIY installation tip: Remove the four Torx bolts FIRST (you’ll need a T25 Torx bit), before trying to disconnect the electrical connection. Once the Torx bolts and spark plug wires are removed… you’ll be able to easily maneuver the ignition coil so that you can see the underside of the electrical connection wire clip. Push in the wire clip to easily release the electrical connector. (Refer to the fourth photo above showing the electrical connector with the wire clip) Read more

Not much to say. It's a genuine Motorcraft coil. The original 2006 Ranger 2.3L coil part number ended in -C. This one ends in -D, so it's probably a re-design. Hopefully an improvement, since the original coil in this truck only lasted 10 years and 60k miles. Listen people, I'm a expert diagnostician with the best equipment available, so please hear me on this. Coils typically don't go bad for no reason. What kills coils is high resistance in the secondary ignition components (plugs, wires, cap, rotor). This comes from not doing a tune-up when you're supposed to, or running cheap tune-up parts. Run Motorcraft stuff. This truck was a 2006 with 60k miles, and the truck was in mint shape. Clearly well cared for. It had the original Iridium Motorcraft plugs and plug wires. I took waveform samples of the ignition coil voltage (both control wires) and amperage with my Picoscope. What I saw was that 1/2 of this coil had a short in the primary windings, and it would misfire with any real load on the engine. The spark would only jump about 1/4" on two terminals, and would jump about 1.5" on the 3rd and 3/4" on the 4th. After I did the job (Motorcraft coil, double platinum plugs, wires), I scoped it again with each component I replaced. The waveforms were not correct until I had replaced everything. The plugs were especially bad waveforms. The wires might have gone on longer, but not the plugs. They would have killed a new coil eventually. So when you replace the coil, think to yourself... what killed this coil? Read more

My 2002 Ranger started a strange problem where, at low rpms, it would stutter or chug while accelerating. I had a little luck in assuming it was the coil, rather than replacing the wires and spark plugs first. One word of caution is remove the coil itself, by unscrewing the four bolts, before unclipping the wiring. The electrical plug, that snaps into the coil itself, has plastic tabs that are locked in but are also held in with a metal retainer (think stretched out paper clip in the shape of a >_<). I made the mistake of trying to remove the tabs as I didn't notice the metal clip first. Needless to say, I broke off one of the clips, though it still seems like it's seated just as well and shouldn't come loose. In other words, remove the coil first, before detaching the wiring harness...this allows you to visually see the metal retaining clip and see how it's supposed to be removed first. After the 30 minute ordeal, most of which was spent figuring out if I could reattach a broken clip, I bolted and seated the plug wires, the truck ran perfect as normal. Also, if your plug wires are not labeled (1,2,3,4), make note before removing them. Good luck! Read more

Works on my 2009 ranger 4 cylinder. Fixed my miss. Read more

Fixed the occasional engine misfire and sputtering. The truck would jerk at low RPM but would run fine at higher RPMs. The old unit had a crack at the base. Read more