Siraya Tech Fibreheart PPA-CF Core Black 3D Printer Filament - PPA Nylon with 25 Core-Concentrated Carbon Fiber Ultra-Strong

PURPOSE: FPV 5 Inch Drone Frame. Why is not PPA CF Core filament marketed for FPV Drones, like how Siraya posts drone images including a '5 inch drone' on their bendy PETG CF filament, that is a mystery rather. [I know why! Read at the update!} Siraya brags on how PETG CF would be suitable for a FPV Drone. Wrong, PETG even melts at 80c... useless... Spoken too early since the drone did not take off yet to be tested in freestyle flight. STIFFNESS: However, the stiffness of PPA CF25 Core is much more felt when holding a drone frame and trying to bend it by two opposite arms, more than PA6 CF20 (from Fiberon); this is after annealing the drone (no wrapping for 2.5mm thinnest plate in dehydrator) for 8 hours at 90c, and another 4 hours after spray-painting the drone's frame BRITTLENESS: Nor PPA CF Core suffers the same brittleness of PA6 CF20, which would break, the plate, if screws were tightened too hard. MOISTURE: You should see how PA6 CF20 bends and feels when one moist it for days, unreliable. PRINTER: The irony is I am using Bambu Lab A1 Mini for the these clean prints. Initially the prints were deteriorating and I couldn't figure out what was the cause of malady. Since the bad print was gradual thus the assumption was the PPA CF Core filament was moist. Did anneal the spool twice, 4 hours each. Issues with print continued. Replaced the Extruder gear with a metallic one, and this did not help. Replaced the hardened steel 0.6mm nozzle, and the issue of bad prints continues. The hint was then the extruder 'clicking' noise. I assumed the spool was too dry and was skipping being moved by the gears. Rather, this was the symptom of loose screws at the back of the same heating element. I was missing 3 of 4 screws. This means, the nozzle was moving freely and loose. After adding the missing screws and screwing them with thread locker, the print is very smooth using Bambu liquid glue. I am not sure if there is another type of material that is stiffer than PPA-CF Core, other than the method of extruding "Continuous Carbon Fiber" thread into the print. Stiffness with FPV 5 Inch drone is a must, and PPA-CF is very close to the actual carbon sheets stiffness, not there, but much closer than other materials that I had tried. Of course, there is the aspect of 'resonance'. This I will know in a few days, if the drone frame I had printed, JeNo 5.1 is airworthy or not. UPDATE: Alas, the air trip did not go well. I took off with the drone, felt smooth and in control, had an RX issue, hardware issue not related to the filament. Thus I decided to land the FPV drone after a short and slow flight, which did not feel awkward. Here is the rub: When the drone landed, and I went to pick it up, one of the arms was broken. Siraya PPA CF Core is flimsy when it comes to strength, I broke an arm of a drone on soft landing! and on the Grass! Why is so? Why such a soft and gentle landing would cause the FPV Drone's arm to snap and break? What went wrong? Was it me, the design, the printing method, or the Filament? Why there was no success Siraya? Why? Do you know how cynical I do feel now? Do you know how it feels upon the realization that it is impossible to print an FPV 5" drone frame! It feels not nice! However, I will attempt to print PA6 CF20 arms, and keep other drone's parts that were printed with PPA CF Core. Now, how does the "Core" thing did help in this situation? What difference does a "Core" filament from the non "Core", if drone arms break easily? UPDATE 2: Investigating the broken arm on the drone (the same with PA6 CF20), I have realized that the way how I printed the arm had created a very weak structure where the screw holds the arm unto frame; specifically 'around' the screw hole. I had used Bambu Lab new hole-contour feature in printing the FPV Drone arms. This had created a separate circular walls from the main body of the arm (All walls). Thus, more than half of the arm width at that spot was compromised. I am try out to print the arms without a hole, and drill a hole instead, and give this a try. Read more

Excellent filament. Easy to print, excellent layer adhesion, very strong heat resistant parts. Zero issues with bed adhesion or warping. Read more

This filament is extremely strong, probably the strongest I’ve come across to date. It has a separate core with carbon fiber making the outside of your print smoother. With this being said, it should be noted that this stuff will NOT run well in a high flow nozzle that uses separate flow ducts such as with a CHT nozzle. It will extrude however your parts will have a very rough finish. Use a standard flow hardened nozzle, print slow and hot and you should be good. I run this at 300c, it will run on less however layer adhesion will decrease which I assume most buying this filament will not want. Read more

First time using this PPA CF filament - I use to PA6 CF - ASA GF - ABS CF regularly for context. Depending on your printing Bowden set up - this filament is extremely brittle if you have tight bends. Even when coming from straight from a 70C warmer. I have a Creality k1 Max and theres a tight Bowden turn into the filament feeder motor that hits the lid up top. Took me a few failed prints before I figured out that I had lift up the lid of the printer 1" to stop the filament from breaking before it got to the hot end. That said - 300C, 90C, 45 MM/ - I ran this directly after running the new and overpriced lyten graphene PA6 (supposedly the strongest) And this PPA may be stronger It sure AF prints smoother than pa6 (pic) So my 2 cents - I spent 150 bucks on " strongest filament known to man" graphene from Lyten And this 85 buck filament just saved my 50 % Read more

If the product photos show the filament is wound randomly, assume it will bind up. I am never buying this brand anymore, or the bambu brand. Literally half the spools I buy from those two brands cannot be left unattended because they eventually bind up. The spools are wound loose and randomly so filament will slip under other loops or slip down to the center on the side. When you try to tighten it, it makes the problem worse. Trying to respool it requires you heat the fIlament or it will keep breaking If you buy these because of teh price, you might as well buy the premium stuff because those are not going to ruin your prints 50% of the time. This last spool I got was so loose out of the box just tugging lightly on the end caused the filament to SINK into the spool and instantly snag. Bambu filament is even WORSE and I got 100 full spins of the spool before ALL the slack was taken up! I have thrown away about 50% of the filament I got from sirayatech because it kept binding on the spool ruining prints. Read more

Super strong, really easy to print with, great quality Read more

I am sure at the end of the day itnis user error somehow, but I cannot for the life of me get this to print without strings sticking out and extreme rough texture on edges. I have tried adjusting flow rates, temperatures, pressure advancement, print speeds, etc.. basically every setting I could find. I tried drying it in my Creality filament dryer for 24 hours. Nothing works, i get completed prints, but they are so gnarled They are unusable. It is strong though. Read more

Used this for a CNC lathe coolant adapter jet. So far it has been holding for 2 weeks 9 hrs a day under constant 65psi coolant pressure. Read more