Jay D—January 13, 2024
This canister matched the original exactly and was straightforward to put in. The instructions were easy to follow. If you are comfortable with minor mechanical household upkeep, this should be easy to install. You will need a Phillips screwdriver, and a small flat screw driver (maybe a jewelers type), to get a rubber O-ring out. You need to turn off the power and shut of the water to the humidifier unit, so know where these controls are before you start. One of the steps involves confirming that the electrode wires are OK. The electrode wires are really just two wires that connect to the top of the canister. It's easy to check these wires. What you are really checking is that they are fitting snugly, and that they have 'O' shaped rather than 'D' shaped connector ends. That is easy to do, and I'd suggest you do that before installing the new canister. 'D' shaped connectors won't fit the new canister (and need to be replaced). Loosely fitting connectors should be replaced as well. That is a good thing to know before you get half-way through the job and have to order them. Eventually, the electrode wires will probably need to be replaced (mine did not). Also - keep the old canister as a reference when you put the new canister in. At one point the instructions said to make sure there was a strainer attached. Looking at the old one, it's just a plastic piece that fits on the bottom. It was there, but I'm guessing it can fall off and that's why they had you check. All in all, it is an easy job. My indicator light was not calling for replacement after almost two years, but I decided to do it anyway (mine sits downstream of a water softener). Judging from the amount of solid gunk in the old canister I probably should have done it sooner. I'm not sure what the unit uses to judge when it should be replaced, but it is seems to error on the bad side. All in all a pretty easy job and the instructions were reasonably good! Read more
D.H.—February 1, 2014
This is a must have replacement. Just like replacing the filter cartridge on the evaporator type humidifiers only better. This component does all of the work to produce steam humidification. The cost is way within reason because it houses all of the steam producing components necessary in one neat easy to replace device. Just like a filter cartridge, it can build up unwanted deposits of minerals on surface of heating elements. Over time it will decrease it's efficiency like the evaporative type cartridges. The cool thing about the Aprilaire 800 Series humidifier unit is that it tells you when this cartridge needs to be replaced by an indicator light on front of panel. Tip: To increase it's life expectancy I installed a ice maker filter cartridge in the 1/4 inch make-up water supply line. They're good for about 2000 gallons of water per year. This humidifier can put out 1 gallon of water per day if wired with 240 volt option or 1/2 gallon per day if wired using 120 volt power. Think about it, there's only 365 days per year at a maximum of 1 gallon per day. A 2000 gallon ice maker filter is a cheap way to protect and extend life of the canister. D.H. (Ret. Engineer) Read more
Stephens City, Virginia—July 26, 2025
Easy to replace and works like a charm. Read more
Bob in Central Oregon—November 19, 2019
First and foremost, the new canister fit exactly in place of the original. Changing it takes minutes with just a couple tools. I used a "universal" screwdriver that included a Phillips for the door screw, and a bit pulls out to offer a 5/16" hex to engage the hose clamp where the steam hose connects to the canister. No other tools needed. Obviously, the service life of the canister is related to the hours it's active, and the dissolved minerals in the supply water. Aprilaire recommends annual replacement. I bought the new canister in time for the first annual replacement, but after pulling the old one out and seeing what's inside, I decided to try a vinegar soak and see how much of the minerals would drop out. I started with water only, part way full, and shook the unit with hands blocking the ends to try and get as much out as I could that way. Then I put a handy plastic cap on one end, stood the canister up in a corner of my shop sink, and filled it with vinegar. I left it that way for a few days all in, changing the vinegar daily including the water rinse after each soak. Then reinstall it and away we go. Over the course of the next several years, the vinegar cleaning was less and less effective. The minerals were coming out OK for the most part, but the copper electrode plates were suffering and getting smaller. After four full winter seasons and cleanings, there wasn't enough electrode surface left to maintain target humidity in our climate and use pattern. With a heavy heart and a lighter wallet, I installed the new spare and sent the old one to trash. Doing the cleaning and acid washing like this is not for everyone. I'm a retired engineer and an insufferable tinkerer (per others anyway) so it wasn't that big a deal. For the cost of a gallon of vinegar and the cleanup in the sink, it's been an interesting experiment. Again, the rate at which the calcium carbonate builds up inside is related to how much you use yours, and how much dissolved mineral content is in your water. We have very soft tap water, but the 4-zone system in our retirement bungalow has the furnace running regularly. For others who see less than a year of service, you have harder water, or higher duty time than we do. Maybe a cleaning will allow you to stretch your canister life some. Read more