2008 Harley Davidson Sportster 1200 Install!
Quality product! Sound is awesome for a $60 system, at 40mph and lower its great. It's plenty loud enough, but as you approach 60 mph and up truth is no stereo is going to sound like a home audiophile system. Bottom line is 'buy it'! Customer service is first rate, they are great! Also, I read some complaints about bass. When I first connected the speakers they too sounded a bit flat. I clicked onto my Poweramp music player and set it to large concert hall and max bass and presto... truly impressive rich sound! My install - I mounted the speakers on the handlebars just inside the windshield. Then, ran all the wires and the amp into a small, front fork mounted, 'tool bag' type pouch. The main issue is the red hot wire. I must have watched a dozen youtube videos on this subject. I usually ride with my high beam on. I know its obnoxious, but down here in Florida anything you can do to stay visible is a life saver. I unscrewed the chrome cover that holds the daymaker headlight in place. Sadly, Harley does not provide an auxiliary wire in the headlight wiring harness of Sportster's. At least not in mine. There are three wires entering the headlight assembly from a hole in the back. Black wire is ground, white wire is High Beam, yellow wire is Low Beam. I used a plastic splice connector from Home Depot to connect the red Boss power wire to the white High Beam wire. (AMP Splice Tap Connectors 10 pack). The hole in the back of the headlight assembly where Harley runs the headlight wires - Harley runs the wire harness though the hole with a rubber bushing that protects the wires and keeps water from getting in. I tried to slice the rubber bushing so that I could add the Boss red hotwire but it was cramped quarters and I couldnt get in there without taking the chance of cutting the headlight wires also. You may be able to do it, I couldn't. I ran the red power wire through the hole and at the point where it touched the metal headlight housing I covered the wire with an extra couple of layers of electrical tape to protect it from the housing wearing through the insulation and shorting the amp. Then, pushed the rubber bushing back into the hole. It wasn't a perfect fit, there was a slight gap because of the red wire I installed. It also wasn't a terrible fit - and then I put the headlight and headlight retainer back into place. After continual testing at every stage, and when I was sure all worked as it should, I used a dab of black silicone caulk and filled in the gap between the rubber bushing and the outside of the headlight assembly. This also helped hold the red power wire in place and reduce any chance of shorting against the headlight casing. I ran the ground wire outside the headlight housing for a few inches to a windshield mounting bolt and tightened it down. (I didn't want the ground wire taking up space going through the headlight hole, so I split the red power wire and the ground wire before the power wire entered the headlight housing hole. You may find it works just fine running both wires through, especially after using caulk to close up the hole where the wires enter.) Finally, I used zip ties to connect the volume button to the left side windshield mount, very close to where my hand naturally fits onto the handlebar grip. I believe you want the volume control where your left hand can safely get to it without too much reaching. Final result is my Boss audio system works only when the high beam is on. And when the bike is turned off there is no chance of the amp staying on and draining the battery. Also, my install required no drilling, no running wires under gas tanks and seats, and no toggle switch. I love having music now!!! Safe riding! Read more