We read about the noisiness of this model, but it's an AIR CONDTIONER and not overly noisier than any a/c. We love it; set it and let it run. DRAINAGE; we bought a white drain hose which is good. Yes, you can just cut a small opening in the supplied window block/exhaust board and run it outside, but the drainage isb't a big deal or requires constant monitoring (I drained it for a very small trickle after a couple of weeks). I DID use a different insulation foam, also from Amazon, made for cars and looks, insulates and works much better. This unit is clean and capable. Easy and fast to set up. Has a remote that is fine. Does NOT use a tone of power to operate!A cost-effective way to cool space instead of central air. Read more
I had to move into my parents house in Phoenix to help take care of them when my mother hurt herself, and my father is insane, and doesn't believe in using the AC until June >.> I'm in a small room that faces the afternoon sun, and get boiling hot, even if the house AC is running because it also only gets a sideline offshoot duct that brings in almost no air. I looked at a very small Midea and a Frigidaire, both because of their compact size and lower power usage (I was concerned running my computer *and* an AC unit together in here) but settled on this guy after reading the reviews, and having several other LG products. I also liked that this was *not* made in China, unlike every other model I looked at. I know this is a very tiny room it's in, smaller than its recommended footage, but with the sun beating down and being 96 degrees out already, its capable of getting the room down to seventy degrees, within 15 minutes. With a computer and 65inch TV baking away. That's no joke, this thing is a beast. Yes, it's a little loud, a little larger than I was hoping for, and I wish I had a real 'low' setting, but for what it can do, I'm alright with that. Luckily it's dryer than good British comedy here, so I don't have to worry about water collection. Also, it *can* make an awful racket with the compressor running if the plastic housing is shifted just enough to make it touch the frame and vibrate, but I put a little piece of soft foam just under the lip of it on the bottom, and makes absolutely no noise now. Well, other than its normal operating blower fan drone. When it first did that, I was upset thinking it was a mechanical problem, and I'd have to deal with a heavy return. Then I realized it went away completely if I held a hand to the plastic housing on the front, and it was just the vibration. All in all, as long as it keeps working and doesn't set the house on fire in my sleep, I'm happy with it. Read more
Update: We're just starting our second season using this a/c unit to cool a bedroom. And unfortunately it's failing. While it blows cold air, it's not blowing nearly enough anymore, and the room is barely cooling. There don't appear to be any connection issues or heat leaks elsewhere. It's just underperforming all of a sudden. -- We bought this unit last summer and have mixed feelings about it. As for the cooling, it works great and does exactly what it's supposed to. Superior to the other brand we bought units from (another well-known two-letter brand name). But... This thing leaks water constantly. And that caused major issues for us last summer, as it flooded a floor that had electric heating panels beneath it. We had to rip out flooring to have it dried properly -- an expensive fix due to the unit failing to work as-advertised. As of this year, it's leaking every single time it runs for more than a few hours, so the "evaporation technology" is complete garbage. It's not even that humid here. So, if nothing else, know that you *must* have some sort of drip tray under this. A washing machine tray with 2-in sides worked great. This year we're trying a smaller 22x22 in mini-fridge tray this year. A large boot tray might also work, but ideally I'd recommend 1.5-2in high sides. On an unrelated note, we have mostly wood crank casement windows. So the usual solutions of those stick-on zip-up adapters (which can come up when the adhesive warms up) and plywood cut-outs weren't going to work well. We came up with our own solution that's working great though, and it's simple. I'll post pictures. In short, you'll need to either de-screen your current window screen or buy an extra. Then re-screen the frame with 16-guage marine vinyl (you can buy it by the yard here on Amazon). Trace your connector on the vinyl (dry erase marker works well and can be easily removed after). Cut the hole with a box cutter or similar tool. Attach your hose. Then you can seal up around the edges with something like clear gorilla tape. Make sure it gets plenty of grip on the plastic, as that seems to be the weakest contact point for the tape. This method is a bit forgiving, so don't worry much if the hole is slightly large or if you get a small tear. The tape adheres very well to the vinyl and patches and reinforces to get a good fit. The pictures show older Andersen crank windows w/ the metal spline (which you can remove by prying up one edge, then sliding a butter knife or something similar along the under edge as you hold the lifted end down to prevent curling. For those, you can either re-spline with new spline or use a rubber mallet to tap the metal one back in place. For "normal" screens, just use normal spline and roll it into the grooves after rolling in the vinyl. Read more
