Professional Knife Sharpener with 6 Whetstones 360 Flipping Angle Adjustable Design Fixed-Angle High Precision Grinder Sharpening with Dual

I’ve been using this KETIPED fixed-angle sharpener for about two years now and it’s been a great buy overall. The build quality is excellent for the price, sturdy aluminum/stainless construction with a heavy, stable base, and the dual clamps hold blades securely. The 360° flipping design (with 90° stop positions) is a big convenience and makes it easy to work both sides of the edge without constantly re-clamping. My only real complaint is the included stones/plates. They’re “fine to get started,” but they aren’t the best in terms of consistency and performance. If you want the best results (especially on nicer knives), I’d strongly recommend picking up a set of higher-quality diamond plates or stones to pair with this system. Bottom line: the sharpener itself is solid and works really well, just don’t expect the stock abrasives to be amazing. Once upgraded, it’s a fantastic setup. Read more

Update: I figured out the answer to number 4. The pictures here have the tower mounted backwards. The hook should actually be in the back, allowing you to clip the rod into it to hold it out if the way. The entire tower with it's 4 screws had to be flipped compared to the pictures. Otherwise, it works super well, just don't expect a buttery smooth linear rail for the left to right slider (which isn't a big deal for this use case at all), and be prepared to check all the things listed below and fix them up. The built in ~15 degree angle isn't a big deal after some use. In fact, I would argue it is likely a better design choice. The included stones need to be upgraded though. They take a while to raise a bur on soft steel. I wouldn't dare even try to use them on harder steels like D2, S35vn, or s90v. I would purchase again. ------ The potential for this unit is great, but you are going to have to work for it. 1. You need to check every screw. Some of the tower screws were loose and created a ton of wobble and flex. Some things misaligned where you must loosen/adjust/tighten. 2. Tower-to-carriage crews seem poorly chosen. Like m5 hole countersunk for a button head, but they ship m4 socket heads. 3. The base linear rail has got to be the crunchiest nastiest linear rail I have ever felt. Running it back and forth a ton smoothed it out a little bit, but it still sticks, and it generated a ton of metal shavings doing it. It's horrible. Fair bit of force is often required to slide it. It does work though, and nothing else I have seen has this feature. 3. You are going to need to tune the blade flipping mechanism. It was 0.7 degrees off. Had to loosen some screws, adjust, and tighten to get it zero out. That being said, once done, and tightening up the spring, it reliably rotates from 0.0 to 0.0 so it's repeatable. 4. I literally have no idea what the weird hook on the tower is for, and the instructions make no mention of it. It's not like a rod holder or something as far as I can tell. 5. The big one I have mixed feelings on: the flipper mechanism is mounted such that it always have a 15 degree sharpening angle built in. Like, if you keep the stones perfectly perpendicular to the ground, 0.0 degrees, you are sharpening at 15 degree angle. This is fine I guess, but generally these systems are 0 degree and you set the rod angle exactly to your desired angle. There is no mention of this of course, you just have to look at it and go "oh hmm, yeah I shouldn't do that... I need to set to 5 degrees to get 20." 6. Pushing the rod into the linear bearing on the tower the first time kicked out one ball bearing that went flying. 7. The adjustable stops that you put on the rod had metal shavings that had to be cleaned out so they could fit on the rod. I'm going to try it a bit more over the next week or two, and will update my review accordingly. I'll put some PTFE spray on the rail and put it through it's paces. Right now, I am on the fence if I return it or not. I am fine making a few tweaks here and there for a good solid system as long as it holds up. Read more

This guided sharpener, a Toohr #3 clone, is a solid product. I had ordered one from the Toohr Offical Store off Ali Express and received a bad unit. Bent guide rod, gimbal guide rod bearing assembly missing the tiny ball bearings, both causing incredibly stiff operation. Also, the tower mount on the metal sliding bar was so full of swarf, that made sliding the unit very difficult. I returned it. I ordered this KETIPED unit and it was a night and day difference. while it still required disassembly to correct minor fabrication and assembly issues, once done, the unit was as solid as could be and I started sharpening the first knife 45 minutes later. Very pleased with its function and the repeatability when flipping the blade over. Please note, the included stones are not great quality. They will work though. Additional thoughts on what I deem convenient items to have: A dedicated allen head screw driver for the knife clamps. The included allen keys will work though. A digital angle finder. Not all knives are sharpened at 15° :) Diamond grit stones. The Sytools branded ones work well for me and are relatively inexpensive. Things I did once I received it: TLDR... Clean/wipe/brush each part down. Evenly loosen and re-torque each and every screw. Chamfer ends of guide rod. Tower mount: Note: Do NOT remove the tower mount from the slider bar as you risk losing the ball bearings. Slide the tower mount to each end and clean the edge channels where the bearings ride. brush out any swarf that may be present. Mine had only minor debris. Lightly lubricate the edge channels with a dry lube. Tower assembly: Remove the the top and bottom screws for the two guide rods. Apply blue (medium) loctite to the threads and loosely install screws. Run the hand crank to the bottom and snug the bottom screws. Run the hand crank to the top and snug the top screws. This will parallel both rods. Fully tighten screws. Guide Rod Gimbal. Tighten the screw enough to remove the play but not hinder the rotation of the gimbal. 1/4 turn is all mine took. A thin wall socket or suitable flat blade screwdriver will be needed to hold/jam the recessed nut. Knife clamps: Mine fit too snug in the clamp bar. Using a fine mill file ,taking one swipe at a time and alternating the sides I filed, I hand fit the clamps to the clamp bar until they slid back and forth without canting. Blade rotation assembly. I removed each screw, one at a time, and applied blue loctite. Loosely install the screws and tighten each one down evenly (standard torque). Tighten spring. After this, repeatability when rotating the clamp bar improved to ~ 0.1° - 0.2°. Guide rod: The guide rod is straight cut and has sharp edges. Break the edges on the ends >/= 0.010" or chamfer them a bit with a bench grinder, file, or whatever you have. These sharp edges are likely to catch and unseat the tiny ball bearings in the guide rod bearing assembly upon installation. After all this, the sharpener is smooth and solid in performance. Hope this info helps someone out. Read more