Beige colored iron bathtub suffered some chips. This kit is really amazing. The most difficult thing is managing the color match. The black requires just the tiniest speck when combined with part A & B and the brown. Had a few re-dos as a result, but there was enough material to get the job done. The color matching will improve in direct proportion to your patience in adding the color. Parts A & B didn't harden very quickly so there was plenty of time to work with the product. Read more
So.. start with a tiny bit of A and B add a spec of color. Not a toothpick dip like someone said... don't do that. Add a spec like your doing dot work. LoL 😆 eventually I got the right color mix. But I ended up mixing half the containers lol 😆 also if it looks to pink and you think you need a light beige.. add more white sure.. but add a spec of black too. Most the beige needed for say a tub is a mix of both colors. Very little black to beige color like a 4:1 ratio of the beige to black. .. and hardly any of either lol. It stays workable for however long you need. This also means it'll take a long time to dry realize you need to wait till next day at least to sand. They also recommend in the paperwork to have a polish and a wax not in the kit available. I like the mix I could work w this resin without feeling lightheaded in a small bathroom. Fumes maybe a tiny bit but nothing horrid at all and the smell is all in part b lol 😆 jars are easily resealable. Same w color. So if you mess up sand down and try again. Would have been better if they included more popsicle sticks so I recommend having something to mix and apply and something for the jars I ended up bleeding colors and mix back I to my jars with only 1 stick included. This is obviously less then ideal. But hey it's a good kit. You should get another bit of sand paperm they include red sandpaper in 600 and 1000. You want 2000 for a tub to polish at the end. And I wouldn't recommend a red piece anyway. Use the others to rough the original surfaces up. Then wipe them clean and dry. Resin mix comes off with acetone if it gets on your hands. It's one star less then perfect because not enough sticks not good instructions (though adequate) didn't include wax or polish (or tell you you needed it before buying) didn't include a mixing tray. Read more
This was a wonderful fix! We have a tub-shower insert that was in great condition aside from an area high up where there was some kind of previous damage. It looked like the previous owner or someone hastily attempted a repair. It was unsightly. Found and used this product and it worked SO well. Had to do 3 coats because of the substantial damage. Color matching was the hardest part and I went a little too dark on the last coat, but only if you look closely. It was fast and easy and I’m so pleased with this product!! Tips - be SUPER sparing with the tinting. A tiny pin pick amount goes a long way - be very careful to put it only on the area needed and feather the edges so it’s easier to sand -I taped around my spot because I saw a few videos were people did that- I don’t recommend it. I waited too long and a tiny string of the painters tape is now a part of our shower forever. - it dries the same color as it is wet- so make sure it matches before applying -sanding is needed and it’s not super easy so have some extra on hand Overall, highly recommend! Very happy with the results. Before and after results Read more
I've used this twice, first to repair a 1cm chip in a fiberglass composite shower, then to patch some chipped tile in a kitchen floor. It works great, but it's genuinely hard to get a color match. In my I was a little not-dark-enough on the first attempt, and a little too-dark-and-too-grey on the second. Both I consider adequate outcomes, as they look 1000% better than they did before. The tile floor shown has about a dozen chips repaired, the largest about 1cm wide. (Side note: if you want to clean grout, mix hydrogen peroxide with baking soda and dish soap. It actually works!) Between the brown and black dyes you have a lot of versatility in matching a color, but it's not at all reproducible. Every attempt is a roll of the dice, you can't save the result for later, and you've permanently used to some of your raw materials. To its credit, the material looks about the same wet as it does cured. I found the consistency when mixed fairly sticky. This is good, as it adheres well to the substrate, but there are downsides. It's hard to flatten it out without making a mess during application. I had my best results using a toothpick. The material cures to the consistency of a very hard polymer. As others have mentioned, sand paper is barely effective in wearing down the material (without power tools), though it does work. I had good results with a Dremel and a barrel grindstone. Takes a light touch, but it was easy to take the bulk of the material off leaving a flat surface. From there it depends how shiny you want it. For my shower I sanded, then used rubbing and polishing compounds to match the existing shine. The tile was trickier, as it was not glossy, but a sort of ceramic eggshell pebble with some color variations. For that I used the Dremel stone to flatten, then some combination of sandpaper and a scotchbrite pad to arrive at an approximate texture. I'm not sure it would be possible to achieve a perfect texture match, but for small repairs, and for most practical purposes, I'm happy. Read more
