WUPP 12 Volt Fuse Block Waterproof Boat Fuse Panel with LED Warning Indicator Damp-Proof Cover 6 Circuits with

Tested this unit before installing and everything worked perfectly. After install everything still working perfectly. Great product!! East to install and use. Read more

The fuse block seems very solid and the screws work well for connecting wires. It is nice to have a light that turns on next to a blown fuse. Highly recommended for your 12 volt power distribution projects. Read more

Works good for extra accessories Read more

I bought this despite Amazon telling us it is a frequently returned item. I liked the design, and wanted to know more but could not find enough info in the description. Here is how this thing works. You provide a continuous Bat+ feed, and you CAN provide a switched connection. The switched post is common to every relay, the left side of those green screw connectors is hot from the ACC post. Each green screw post is a pair, the one on the right when provided 12v + will switch the relay, regardless of the use of the ACC post. IOW if you don't use the ACC post you can still active each relay. Most cars have switches for say, headlights, that switch the 12v + feed, so if that is how you plan to use it then you can do so and this product needs only the switched wire to work, then you connect the high amp wire to the appropriate fuse and you're done. If you have an accessory you want to switch on with the ignition, then use the ACC post from the ignition, it feeds a post that you can just jump to the right side screw-in terminal and the accessory will come on with the ignition using a relay (connect the accessory to the appropriate fuse). You can do both, activate a relay with your accessory's switch for some relays, and active accessories with the key. The LED indicating if the fuse is good works regardless of how the ACC post is used. What you cannot do is something that I do on my classic Citroën, and that is to provide ground to the relay solenoid separate from all other relays. I do this because the starter solenoid is on a relay (starter solenoids draw as much as 30 amps, so I need to keep that away from my 50+ y/o ignition switch). The relay works fine, but I have it triggered by a switch on the console, and I want to disable the switch when the engine is running. So I get ground to the relay via the alternator voltage regulator. When the engine isn't turning the VR provides ground, but as soon as it starts producing power that line goes positive (that's how it turns off the battery light). Thus the relay can't work and the starter is safe from unintentional activation. Okay, that's not a huge deal, but what is for me that the total lack of documentation about 1. how this thing works (I had to hook it up and try things to ensure I understood how it works), 2. zero documentation on the load max for each relay. I suspect it's 20 amps, but it's not documented. There are six relays on the board, 4 pin relays only (I have one setup that could use a 5 pin but not actually needed with this product). These are micro relays, similar to what I already use in the car. But they are enclosed in a housing that is not ventilated. The description states this thing can handle 80 amps, but 80/6 would be justs 13.3 amps per relay, so perhaps they are rated to 15 amps max? Without clear documentation it is a guessing game, and I dislike guessing with electrical equipment. The cover comes off easily if you can press in the releases. That's not easy from over the cover, but if the thing is in my hand and I press the releases from the bottom it comes off easily. So this needs a redesign to turn the releases around. It came with a lot of fuses BTW, so I'd think you could put it in place with the fuses provided. The build quality is quite good, it's not light for what it is, I would think it will last a long time. I like the fuse LED indicators, but that's not unique to this product. It's fairly compact. I can't say that I'm a fan of the screw-in terminals for the switching wires. If there was a cable retaining strap for them I'd be happier, but I'm concerned that the wire can come out and short to ground when you activate the switch, which is not something you want to happen. Without a cable retention mechanism I'd prefer a screw I can either wrap the wire around, or use a small ring terminal on the wire. I have not determined if I'll use this product on my car. Edit: I decided to use this in my car and it’s working as expected. The relays are rated at 20 amps (I took it apart to find this out). Build quality is quite good. I don’t find the cover difficult to remove now that it’s mounted. It replaced 4 relays and a six fuse block, the wiring is far cleaner than before since I don’t need independent ground and Bat + wires to each relay. The fuse labels are marine centric, I used my Brother label maker to make new labels. I did not tin the trigger wires, the clamp is a nice long flat bar and I think that gets a better clamp than if I had a soldered end, and solder can cause work hardening failure where the solder ends. I’d still like to have a strain relief, I think one could be made to clamp down using the Bat + posts to hold it, so I’ll,be looking at making one from plastic. Read more

Wow! This going to work. I haven't set I up yet but I like to fuse all my positive leads of my solar panels and my previous fuses were ok but hard to check fuses. I'll do a follow up when installed Read more

Its a really nice way to organize and protect multiple circuits. I used it on my golf cart. Works great Read more

2nd one I own. Very nice and tidy, makes adding accessories easy as pie. This one is for sxs for light bar and backup lights .. Read more

It’s a good fuse panel. Not a lot of room when using larger wires but it’ll do the job needed. Read more